What a crochet pattern actually looks like
Most crochet patterns come in one of three formats: written instructions (rows and rounds spelled out in abbreviations), stitch charts (visual diagrams using symbols), or a combination of both. Modern patterns often include all three plus step-by-step photos.
A typical written line looks like: 'Row 1: ch 20, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in each ch across, turn. (19 sts)'. Translated: chain 20 stitches, then work a single crochet into the second chain from your hook, and continue working a single crochet into each remaining chain across the row. Turn your work. Your row should have 19 stitches in total.
Once you've decoded that first line, the rest of any pattern follows the same language. It looks like nothing at first; within a week it reads like English.
The standard crochet abbreviations (US system)
These are the abbreviations you'll see in 90% of US-written patterns. Learn these first.
ch = chain stitch.
sl st = slip stitch.
sc = single crochet.
hdc = half-double crochet.
dc = double crochet.
tr (or trc) = treble crochet (also called triple crochet).
dtr = double treble crochet.
st / sts = stitch / stitches.
sk = skip.
sp = space.
yo = yarn over.
rep = repeat.
rnd / rnds = round / rounds.
inc / dec = increase / decrease.
FPdc / BPdc = front-post double crochet / back-post double crochet (used for textured stitches like waffle stitch).
BLO / FLO = back loop only / front loop only (instructing you to work into only one loop of a stitch, which changes the fabric's texture).
For more on each stitch, our basic crochet stitches for beginners guide walks through them with step-by-step instructions.
UK vs US crochet terms — the single biggest beginner trap
UK and US patterns use the SAME abbreviations for DIFFERENT stitches. This catches out nearly every beginner at least once. The specific translations:
US single crochet (sc) = UK double crochet (dc).
US half-double crochet (hdc) = UK half-treble crochet (htr).
US double crochet (dc) = UK treble crochet (tr).
US treble crochet (tr) = UK double-treble crochet (dtr).
So the same abbreviation 'dc' means two completely different stitches depending on whose pattern you're reading. A pattern calling for 'dc' in US terms produces taller, drapier fabric than 'dc' in UK terms.
Always check which system your pattern uses BEFORE you start. US-written patterns usually say so explicitly near the top. UK-written patterns sometimes do, sometimes don't — if the pattern is from a British designer or publication and doesn't specify, assume UK.
If you've started a pattern and the fabric looks much tighter or looser than the pictures, check: you might be using the wrong country's translation. This guide uses US terms throughout because they're the more common standard online.
How to read parentheses and brackets
Parentheses and brackets in crochet patterns usually mean 'repeat this'. The exact meaning depends on the pattern's convention, but two are standard.
(sc, ch 1, sc) in same st = work all the stitches inside the parentheses into the same stitch. In this case, work a single crochet, then a chain 1, then another single crochet — all into one stitch.
[ch 2, sc in next sp] rep 5 times = work the bracketed instruction five times in a row. So: chain 2, single crochet in the next space, chain 2, single crochet, and so on, five times total.
Some patterns use asterisks (*) instead of brackets: '*ch 2, sc in next sp; rep from * 5 times' means the same thing.
Stitch counts at the end of a row (in parentheses) are there to help you check your work. '(19 sts)' at the end of a line means you should have 19 stitches on that row. Count every few rows for your first project — fixing a stitch error now saves unpicking later.
How to read crochet stitch charts (symbol diagrams)
Stitch charts (also called symbol charts) replace written instructions with visual symbols. They're especially popular in Japanese patterns, doily and lace patterns, and modern pattern magazines.
The standard symbols (defined by the Craft Yarn Council) are surprisingly intuitive:
A small oval = chain.
A small plus sign (+) or dot = single crochet.
A T shape = half-double crochet.
A long vertical line with a single slash = double crochet.
A long vertical line with two slashes = treble crochet.
Groups of these symbols arranged in a fan = shell stitch. Clusters closing at a point = bobble or puff stitch.
Charts read from the centre outward for circular patterns (like granny squares and mandalas), and bottom-to-top for flat patterns. Numbers alongside the chart mark the row or round. Most charts include a legend showing what each symbol means — read it first.
Charts are faster to read once you know the symbols, because you can see the whole pattern at a glance. Worth learning early if you're drawn to doilies, mandalas or lace work.
How to read the opening of a pattern — gauge, materials and sizing
Every pattern starts with a block of information before the actual rows. Learn to read this section; it saves disasters later.
Gauge. The number of stitches and rows per 10 cm (or 4 inches) using the specified yarn and hook. Example: '16 sts and 10 rows = 10 cm in dc'. You should make a 'gauge swatch' before starting garment projects — a 10×10 cm square worked in the pattern's stitch. If your swatch is smaller than gauge, use a larger hook; if bigger, use a smaller hook. For non-fitted projects (blankets, scarves), gauge matters less — you can ignore it if exact size doesn't matter.
Materials. The yarn weight (DK, aran, chunky etc.), the exact yarn the designer used (e.g. 'Drops Paris aran — 3 balls'), the hook size, and any notions (stitch markers, tapestry needle).
Finished size. The completed project's dimensions. For garments, multiple sizes are listed in brackets: 'Small (Medium, Large)' with all subsequent numbers following the same format.
Skill level. Usually 'beginner', 'easy', 'intermediate' or 'experienced'. Patterns self-rate fairly accurately — respect the rating on your first few projects.
Special stitches. Any non-standard stitches the pattern uses (like bobble stitch, waffle stitch, or a designer's own invention) are defined here. Practise any unfamiliar stitch on scrap yarn before starting the main project.
Common notation beginners get wrong
'Turn your work' at the end of a row. Flip the piece horizontally so the other side faces you. Skip this and your rows will grow in a spiral rather than stacking.
'Ch 3 counts as dc'. At the start of a double-crochet row, the turning chain-3 replaces your first double crochet. So when you work across the row, skip the first stitch — it's already 'made' by the chain-3.
'Join with sl st to top of beg ch-3'. At the end of a round, slip stitch into the top of the first chain-3 you made. This completes the round.
'In next 5 sts'. Work the specified stitch five times, once into each of the next five stitches — NOT five times into the same stitch.
'In same st / same sp'. Work the specified stitches into the stitch or space you just used, not the next one. This is how shells and clusters are formed.
'Fasten off and weave in ends'. Cut the yarn leaving a 15 cm tail, pull it through the last loop, then use a tapestry needle to thread the tail back through your stitches invisibly. This is how you finish any project.
A worked example — reading a real pattern line
Let's decode this line: 'Row 4: ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in next st, *ch 1, sk next st, dc in next st; rep from * to last st, dc in last st. Turn. (11 sts)'
Translation: at the start of row 4, chain 3 (this counts as your first double crochet, not an extra). Work a double crochet into the next stitch. Now start the repeat: chain 1, skip the next stitch, work a double crochet into the following stitch. Repeat that 'chain 1, skip, double crochet' pattern until you have one stitch left. Work a double crochet into that last stitch. Turn your work. You should have 11 stitches on the row.
That one sentence packs in: a turning chain, a starting stitch, a repeat, a count, an ending stitch, and a turn instruction. Every crochet pattern follows this structure — once you've decoded a few lines, all patterns become readable.